Modeling Rowenta Hair Dryer

Now, lets cap the tubular part.

From the end of the first Line we created in this tutorial, create another line, and make it 10units (mm) long. Now, using Quad option in Osnap create (Curve: Interpolated Points) between two Quad points as start and end, and in the middle top of the 10mm long line:


one half of the newly created curve (arch) with 10mm long line, and that half arch needs to be revolved. I used and followed outer circle. But before that, we need to offset that half arch, and we need to move the inner circle by 2mm right from Top viewport (2mm will be the thickness of our shell – yeah, we still need to do that manually :().


Now, we can use Sweep1 and make two surfaces:


Ok, now, we will make little holes on the rear. From Right viewport make an ellipse 5×2.5mm. it for 45 degrees, and position like on the image:


Using make an array of 24 holes. Naturally the center would be the same center of circular surfaces.

Next, using and duplicate those 24 ellipses, and using shrink them, so you have 5 rows of 24 ellipses each row smaller than the previous.


I have grouped each row of ellipses, and will extrude them one group at the time so I have more control, and less mess. So, extrude the ellipses and trim with two circular surfaces:

hair_dryer_21.jpg hair_dryer_22.jpg

Now, we will make just the same handle and tubular surface, but 2mm smaller. Using all those smaller circles, and smaller curves, we will make inner side of our dryer. You could use offset, but when using it curves are often made out of too much control points, and therefore your surfaces end up with much more isoparms, and we want our models cleaner. You could use Rebuild to make curves better, but then you might loose the original position of your curves. It is a bit tricky, and recreating all the curves, but 2mm smaller is a lot better way.

Now, we need to blend the inner and outer surface where the air blows out.


Next, on the part where the air is sucked in, using and 2mm as radius round that edge:



Lets get back to our first 120mm long line. On the other end (the end there the air blows out from the dryer) create another circle with radius of 6.5mm. The second one from the same center but with 8mm as radius, and another one with radius of 10mm, then one with 16, and one with 18mm radius.Extrude those 5 circles by -15mm (minus is because we need it to go left when looking at it from Top viewport). Do not use Cap option.


Next, you will blendsrf paired circles.


The one in the middle, the smallest circle, using command we will make an arc like on the image below:


Using sweep1 command make a cap:


Using Line or mimic the image below. I first created one line through the center, and then copied it and rotated by 90 degrees, next, I copied those two and rotated by 45 degrees. Next, each line I offset by 1mm up and down, and deleted the middle line. I have also offset the outer circle by 2mm, and aligned everything in the same cplane.


And for the end of this part we will extrude those curves by 5mm with Cap option set to yes.

hair_dryer_31.jpg hair_dryer_32.jpg

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18 Responses to “Modeling Rowenta Hair Dryer”

  1. davide ciarloni says:

    nice example
    can you make some changes to the model?



  2. Gary Pullen says:

    Very interesting but unfortunatly I’m not that far advanced YET. With stuff like this to play with I’m getting better all the time. THANK YOU !
    Gary Pullen
    Amarillo Texas

  3. Ivan Vuzem says:

    I’m pretty sure if you follow carefully this tutorial you will be able to model this hair dryer. After all, you will notice that every model is made with 20 or so exact same commands. The workflow is pretty much the same for each model.

    Check out gery’s try on this model:

  4. gord bradford says:

    Modeling Rowenta Hair Dryer Video tuitorial troubles.

    Step 4 video does not loadup into web browser (all [4] the other ones do.)
    Can you fix?


  5. Rob Pentland says:

    hi……not exactly relevant to the tutorial, but looking for advice – exactly how difficult is this programme to learn? Naturally this depends on a variety of factors, time, understanding etc….but to someone who has never used a 3-D modelling program?….any advice would be great.

    Thanks in advance.

  6. addict says:

    This tutorial rocks! Thanks to people like you helping us to get used to the techniques.

  7. SlothMan86 says:

    Thanks a lot. This tutorial really broke down many problems I was having. I really appreciate it! Oh, and I am a newb a rhino and was able to complete the tut. It took about 6-8 hours…thanks again!

  8. Jeren says:

    this tutorial suck! i dont get anything from it..i tried many times…but as its not detailed explanation and not mentioning little details that lead you to mistake is totally skipped

  9. Rajiv says:

    Very nice tutorial,

    Kindly visit for HDRI Studio effects.

  10. Dioniso says:

    Interesting tutorial, although some steps are not totally clear. Nice job!

  11. Louiz says:

    nice tutorial thanks! i made some modifications to my own model hehe.

  12. Ivan says:

    please do show us your model…

  13. Chiwon Park says:

    Thanks a lot!! 🙂
    It took 8 hours for me..It’s great tutorial! ^_^

  14. Paul says:

    very nice tutotial! thanks.

  15. Jerry says:

    I just did your tutorial. Learned a lot, and thanks for that.

    However, I noticed in some cases, your method will lead to surfaces that have no thickness- i.e. it looks like a solid but it’s actually just a surface infinitely thin. In particular, the way you constructed the ‘hole for hanging” and the groove in “speed controller (step5)” , will compromises the integrity of the solid. Checking naked edges will also reveal this.

    Instead, I built individual solids and then booleaned them together. Not sure if this is the best way, but it worked in keeping the handle a solid, with 2mm thickness.

  16. Przemas says:

    Please include diameters/sizes on the pics. In many cases it is not clear what you are really doing and such diameters would help a lot.

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